Saltwater Fly Pattern

3D KINKYFIBRE

Variation of a Bob Popovics Pattern

This pattern is designed to represent a 'poddy' mullet. It has proved very effective when used in the mangroves on a falling tide. The technique is to use a sinking line and cast up the drains and swim the fly out with the receding water. Species such as barramundi, queenfish, threadfin salmon and mangrove jack have found this much to their liking.



 

Hook:
#2 to 6/0 Gamakatsu SL12S

Thread:
Monofilament or white flat waxed

Materials:
Body – white, dark green and grey Flashfibre coated with silicone
Topping - dark grey or green Polafibre or SLF
Lateral Line – holographic silver Sparkleflash
Rattle - glow in the dark attached with clear heat shrink
Eyes – 3D silver/black

Instructions:
Note: These instructions are for 3/0 size and quantities will need to be increased or decreased according to hook size.

1. Start thread behind hook and form a base of thread back to the bend.

2. Take 5cm of 4mm clear heat shrink tube and push a rattle into it so that the ends are flush. Gently heat with a lighter until uniformly shrunk and while the tube is still soft squeeze the end protruding past the rattle flat.

3. Securely bind the flattened end of the tube to the hook shank making sure that is straight and aligned with the hook shank. Finish with thread over hook point. Apply head cement.

4. Take 5 strands of sparkle flash, double around thread and tie in above the hook point on the near side of the hook. Repeat on the far side of the hook.

5. Cut a bunch of white Flashfibre (about the size of a match stick when compressed) and cut in half. Take one half and taper by pulling some of the fibres out slightly and cut the non-tapered end off so that the bunch is twice as long as the hook shank. Tie in above the hook point so that it covers the near side of the hook shank. Repeat the process for the far side of the hook using the second bunch of material. Take a match stick size bunch of dark green Flashfibre, taper the end, measure and cut so that it is slightly longer than the previous tie and tie in on top of the hook shank.

6. Move thread forward to halfway to hook eye. Apply head cement to the previous tie to secure.

7. Cut a similar size bunch of white Flashfibre, cut in half and put the two halves together. Grasp in the middle and measure (length should be 3 -4cm shorter than the previous white tie). Cut to length and taper both ends by pulling some of the tips outward. Bind the midpoint down on the and secure with thread. Use your thumbnail to spread the materials evenly. Repeat the process on the far side of the hook. Take similar size bunch of grey flashfibre and tie in on top of the hook shank so that it extends justshort of the green that was tied in previously. Move thread to hook eye and apply head cement to the bindings to secure. Comb the materials from front to back to blend colours.

8. Turn the hook upside down in the vice. Take a bunch of white Flashfibre measure, cut and taper so that it is about 1-2cm shorter than the previous white tie. Tie the mid point in just behind the hook eye on the bottom of the hook shank, double the front half back and tie down. Remove the hook from the vice and evenly distribute the "belly" material either side of the hook point and up the sides of the hook shank.

9. Place the hook right way up and tie in a small bunch of grey Flashfibre on top of the shank. This should be again tapered and be slightly shorter than the previous grey tie.

10. Attach the topping material on top of the hook shank. Best shape is achieved if this extends to just past the bend.

11. Apply a lateral line of 5 strands of Sparkleflash on both sides.

12. Form a neat sloping finish, tie off and apply cement to secure.

13. Remove fly from vice and comb from front to rear to blend colours and straighten fibres. Use your fingers to stroke the materials into the minnow shape. Check the "symmetry" and make any required adjustments and attach the stick on eyes.

14. Prepare some Allclear silicone by thinning with lighter fluid until a thin consistency is achieved. If the mixture is too thick it will tend to shrink and form wrinkles. The thinner the better.

15. Apply liberally to the whole head of the fly working from the hook eye back to the bend. Place a large drop on top of the eye and smooth it off so that it runs over the sides. When cured, coat theeyes with some "hard as nails" to prevent flies sticking together

From the front your finished fly should look like this

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

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